It was an overcast day when I approached the recreated palisade of an old aboriginal site, now the
Museum of Ontario Archaeology.
The entry looked forbidding. But that was the point. The Neutral Iroquoians had erected the pointed cedar poles with a maze for protection.
Just as I was about to enter through the palisade portal, a large bird with an even larger wingspan flew over me, nearly grazing my head, before returning to its perch. Its cream-coloured, speckled chest revealed the markings of a hawk.
Startled, I wound my way through the maze to find a grassy arena. At one end stood a longhouse — an arched structure covered with large, weathered tiles of bark. Inside, rustic bunks revealed some insight into how former inhabitants lived, 500 years ago.
At another end, by a forest, a man unloaded materials from his truck. I approached, finding a descendant of one of several tribes that, long ago, freely roamed this area. We exchanged hellos. He said he was setting up a booth of historical artifacts for interested visitors to the upcoming
pow wow.
I told him about the hawk.
"Red-tail," he said.
"How do you know?" I asked.
Without another word, he walked briskly across the arena, his salt-and-pepper ponytail bobbing along. I kept up with him — barely, as he whisked off his steel-rimmed glasses and rubbed them with his shirt tail. He put his glasses back on and squinted at the top of the palisade. The hawk was still perched on one of the poles.
"Look at the base," he said.
I saw russet-coloured feathers at the bird's behind. But they were small.
"He's immature," said the man. "Probably kicked out of the nest."
I wondered how the man knew that. We parted ways. As I headed out, he called:
"Have a cigarette?"
I turned and said: "No," somewhat disgusted by the addiction that needed to bum cigarettes off others.
The man raised his arm and rubbed two fingers in the air.
"Need it to sprinkle," he said.
"Does a cigarette these days even have tobacco?" I called back.
The man paused. I sensed a chuckle.
On my way out, I entered the administrative building. Staff member Anne Tremblay-Pedersen was wrapping up for the day.
"Is the man that's setting up still on the grounds?" she asked.
"Yes," I said, before telling her about the tobacco incident.
"Indeed," she said. "Tobacco, like sage or sweetgrass, is sprinkled about in what's called a
smudge."
I expect a few more aha! moments during the pow wow — my first — this weekend.